Donald Link Interview

Donald Link is one of New Orlean's most respected chefs, helming Herbsaint, Cochon, and the new Cochon Butcher. An expert on real-deal Cajun food, old-world cooking techniques, and charcuterie, Link brings a wealth of knowledge and passion to the Big Easy's food scene. Link, a Louisiana native, began his rise to fame in the San Francisco Bay Area. With the 2000 opening of the now-famous Herbsaint in New Orleans Warehouse District, Link's personal and honest style of cooking gained considerable critical acclaim and popular notice.

Link opened the deservedly-beloved Cochon in 2006, bringing authentic Cajun and Southern food in a comfortable atmosphere to the city, including such old-school favorites Louisiana cochon du lait, rabbit and dumplings, spoon bread with okra and tomatoes, and NOLA's absolute best pineapple upside down cake. Most recently, Link has opened Cochon Butcher, a meat market inspired by the traditions and flavors of the Old World. Butcher offers house-made cured meats and sausages, as well as Cajun delicacies like andouille, tasso, and boudin - as well as sandwiches, small plates, and other delectable snacks.

We from the NCCROW Sumemr Institute asked Donald Link a few questions about his cooking techniques and his connections to the foods and cooking techniques of Italy.

How did you learn to produce European-style cured meats? Did you travel to Europe in order to do this?

We have been making our own sausage, tasso, and bacon for years now. About 5 years ago we started experimenting with salamis, guanciale and pancetta in small quantities. Through trial and error and lots of practice we now are making them for our butcher shop in larger quantities by using two cooling/aging rooms.


What, in your opinion, is the Italian influence on Cajun cuisine?

I don’t know how much Italian influence there is in Cajun food. The Sicilian influence is very present in creole food however with the use of tomatoes, garlic and pasta. Cajun food is very rooted in French and German styles.

How have Italian foods and foodways influenced the way you cook? Are there particular techniques or ingredients commonly used in Italy that have influenced your own style?

Italian food has always been a great love of mine. What I think is similar to Cajun food is the simplicity of the dishes. Simple roasts of meats with their natural juices and simple sides. One of the best meals I had in Italy was a veal roast with the pan drippings and a 4 cheese garganelli pasta. At Herbsaint we make all our pasta and gnocchi from scratch and use only our house made meats.

What charcuterie methods or products do you find most interesting from the perspective of a producer, and what are you working on right now at Cochon Butcher?

What I find most interesting about charcuterie is that it allows you to utilize the entire animal. At Butcher we are doing everything from guanciale to sopressata.